My attendance at the ACW* LFWM show is becoming a bit of a ritual as I’d never willingly miss it. As one of the most popular shows on the schedule, you can almost guarantee its going to be a hit; based on experience.

The show took place in a building beside Truman Brewery and only had a seated capacity. Designer Samuel Ross, is a connoiseur of installation and performance art, so no further questions were asked when I noticed the shallow pooks of water either side of the stage.

The show was titled ‘Birth, Organ, Synth’ and was symbolic of the current migrant crisis with the water on either side representating passages/channels for migrant crossing. Even the stitching in the clothing played an important in telling the story as it features hidden pockets, which signifies the protectionism and guarded mentality migrants often have as a result of the circumstances they are under.

Even the clothing used protective materials such as waterproof coats and nylon jackets. This was said to symbolise self preservation. On the performance aspect there was a troupe of dancers in the water who were then interrupted by a barking doberman. Ross makes a politically charged statement regarding the fierce opposition towards migrants globally.

Even on the catwalk itself, models would stop midway and look back, to me, this symbolises the plight of migrants,wanting to move into a more stable environment but also missing their hometown and those they’ve left behind.

It is refreshing to see a designer tackling relevant issues in a time of political unrest. Due to the theme, the show was a fantastic display of outwear. From outer-pocketed gilets, to parkas and trenches. Ross stuck to his usual base colours of blacks, oranges and red and ofcourse utility wear reigned supreme.

I also appreciated Ross’ continued design of angular handbags which have become quite a hit this year. Each piece, in isolation, is a statement piece. My favourites would have to be the gilets, macs, as well as the jackets with panels cut out as they are such a distinctive piece of design. That said I also have a deep appreciation for the black and orange suits as such a perfect display of tailoring and cut and sew capability.

With each collection, Samuel continues to push boundaries through structural design, challenging the status quo, and now inputting to the narrative. Credit to him to be able to consistently create pieces with such depth in design.