If you’ve been following me for a while you’ll know that the Louis Vuitton show is always the one I look forward to the most, and is the grail of PFW. Having attended since Virgil Abloh took post as artistic director, there was no way I was missing Spring/Summer 2020.
This season’s show took us to Place Dauphine where guests where encouraged to relax and delight in the outdoors. From Louis Vuitton Crepe stalls to LV park benches, and even a bouncy castle! The set transported guests to fond childhood memories and was a brilliant setting to mingle with friends and peers.
The runway opened with swathes of pastel colours from duck egg blue to lemon yellow and soft pinks shown on pieces such as utilitarian jackets, rain coats and shorts. That coupled with the fully operational kites the models were adorned in, made for a playful summers day theme. What really drew my attention was the incorporation of wild flowers, which were worked into his now signature harness and accessories such as bags and gloves. Virgil deliberately choose wild flowers as a note to diversity- after all wild flowers still grow-a nod to his ever growing commitment to inclusivity.
Everytime I think I’ve seen Virgil’s best work, he wows me with another. The use of such colours, prints, and hues merges a boyish aesthetic with manly structure. It is a fusion of boyhood and manhood, with the materials prompting references to childhood wardrobe and contemporary tailoring representing adulthood. Even the more ‘toned down’ grey collection illustrates this with the addition of splattered floral prints along the hem of macs, or the use of pleats and bunching on jackets; ‘ In this way Virgil places a spotlight on the inner child in us all.
Whether its ‘for the kids’ or adults, Virgil has created a collection to not only suit a variety of consumers but to encourage a new school of designers by creating yet another cohesive and intentional collection.