Without a doubt since my first attendance in June 2018, the show I was most looking forward to was the Louis Vuitton show. Looking at the line of fans eager to catch a glimpse of their favourite celebrities in attendance, it was clear that this was the show to see. With Virgil Abloh already teasing that there would be a Michael Jackson theme, and the invitation arriving on a white diamante studded glove, we were in for a treat merging the worlds of two icons.
Escaping the cold weather and heading into the venue in Tuileries Garden, as expected, I was met by an almost entirely star studded room from Fear of God’s Jerry Lorenzo, to artist Frank Ocean. Looking around it became apparent that Virgil had designed a set akin to the streets of New York, complete with steps and a balcony (props to the production team!). This tweaked my interest as I wondered how such a set would be used and integrated into the theme.
Ofcourse the show itself was just as star-studded as the audience from Futura creating live graffiti, to music composed by Dev Hynes, and artists such as Octavian and Sheck Wes modelling. As we took our places, with some guests sitting on the set itself, it was time for Virgil Abloh to unveil his masterpieces.
As the models walked in tune to the live Jazz, Virgil displayed his breadth of design prowess. From wool embossed military style jackets to my personal favourite grey ensembles that showcased tailoring genius, featuring oversized coats, suits, and layered gilets. Of-course the accompanying accessories were head-turners themselves, amongst others, we saw luminous transparent duffel and signature monogram trunks to match the all over monogram print utility jacket which was previously seen as a vest last season.
No doubt, Virgil brought out a raft of desirable pieces and created a collection accentuating the malleability of a plethora of fabrics such as wool, nylon, silk, etc and he does this while making subtle references to Michael Jackson from prints on the pieces, to reference points taken from previous MJ videos. As the colour categorized collection passes through, I notice that Virgil has also perhaps taken the opportunity to make a political and cultural statement in the final collection featuring flagrant displays of colourful flags printed on pieces such as plisse skirts and macs.
Prior to their entrance on the runway we saw a jumper worn by model Montell Martin with a world flag on it predominantly showing Africa. In the wake of political and economic unrest in the Western World, and the increasing commercialization of African countries and their talent popularization, it’s interesting that Virgil uses his platform to make a statement which could be translated to highlight Africa’s current representation in the world and the need for there to be unity among the nations, by using literal unity in fabric.
With Virgil Abloh being Ghanaian himself, I applaud his decision to recognise the motherland as a place that should be discussed, invested in, and celebrated! Of-course his decision to feature all flags may also be a tribute to MJ given Michael’s ethos on unity among nations. As his conclusive piece to the show, this message was not meant to be lost or diluted and Africa was at the heart of it.
Virgil Abloh used this show to pay homage to his own upbringing while celebrating the life of those that came before him. It’s almost like saying, ‘I wouldn’t be where I am today, if I wasn’t in these streets’ so he brought those same streets -Rivington and Orchard-to us. The plethora of nationalities of those involved in the show is a testament to the strength in unity that he implores us to recognise within the show.
