Set in sweltering conditions, the Thom Browne show had us fanning ourselves for multiple reasons. Upon arrival we were transported into the 17th century, filled with unparalleled costume design, characterized by statement 2D jackets and weighty shoes worn by models placed on elevated boxes for all to see.
The show was opened by the American ballet’s lead dancer, James Whiteside who pranced and pirouetted along whilst unveiling the models to reveal fantastically structured sportswear (think Cambridge University sports umpire) outfits. From jockstraps to beautifully tailored suits, all utilising favourable pastel colours.
Browne masterfully juxtaposes the masculinity of sportswear with 17th century feminine glamour by pairing outfits with ‘Marie-Antoinette’ inspired costumes, featuring items such as prodigious panniers, pleated and corset skirts, and dainty parasols. Ofcourse the signature Thom Browne tri-colour was never too far away and was visible on headbands, socks and belts.
Even the accessories perpetuated the sportswear theme, from desirable basketball shaped backpacks to duffle bags. This was a theatrical display of costume prowess with every aspect of the show being in theme from the clothes to hair and makeup complete with various shape patches. Thom Browne is able to deviate from the functional nature of sportswear by injecting a playful element using the extravagant Baroque/Roccoco style. Despite drawing from the 17th century, there was nothing antiquated about the looks presented on the runway. Huge well done to the Team!